Sampling Equipment: The snake belt

- I'm going to buy you a snake belt - my guide Mamadou said while driving by the N7 on our way to Tonboronkoto (Kedougou, East Senegal)

It was only my second day at Africa, and I hadn't completely updated my brain software from ''Confident European'' to ''Silly Toubab''. I didn't want a new belt, and less of all if the belt was made of snake skin, maybe a CITES protected one.

-Thanks, but no need for that, I already have one -I answered firmly.

Niokolo Koba entrance

- Not this one. You need this one. You are going to the Rainforest, you need this belt. Everybody here wears one when working at the fields.

So, that was it. My guide trying to sell me something - I thought. I know that they have to live and so, but I'm not buying something I don't want.

- No, really Mamadou, I don't need one, Thank you.

- You don't understand. This is a magic belt. There are a lot of snakes in the Rainforest, and this belt will keep you safe. If you wear it, you won't be bitten! I want you to be safe. You are my responsibility. I'll buy you one.

Come ooooon! -The ''Confident European" replied in my mind once more. He is now trying to sell me the Real African Experience. I'm a grown up. And a Scientist, for God's sake!. But the fact is that I'm from Galicia too, the place where Meigas (witches) have waiting rooms at their medical (?) offices. So, I flowed with the tide.

-And where are we buying it? -I said waiting for some kind of tourist store, with the snake belt stacked close to elephant wood figures and stuff like that.

- At the Sorcerer's hut, of course.

Sorcerer's hut, the young man and his son

Yeah, right. These guys have everything set -I thought again - well done. I'll let you trick me, just out of curiosity

Some kilometers, several rough patches and a baboon family later, we stopped at the Niokolo Koba National Park entrance as I wanted to talk to the Director for future samplings. We picked up there a man with his sick son, to carry him to the next military post to be treated. He spoke Spanish too, so I could follow the conversation pretty well. People here speak at least two, and frequently three or four languages, but Spanish?. 

-Where does the sorcerer live?-asked Mamadou
-Which one? - replied the young man

At this point, my mental software suddenly updated. I believe that was the moment when I stopped blocking the African experience and began to let things flow.

 -The belt maker. I want him to have one- said pointing at me

-Ah! It's the next after the military post
-You are joking, right? -I had to ask-you are fooling me. Is this for real?
-Of course -the young man said- everybody here wears one in the forest. Very dangerous if not.

I wasn't convinced at all, but I thought about all the magic-religious stuff I deal with in my everyday life, from crucifixes to dream catchers and black cats. And the snakes were a real threat, so nothing to lose here.

-They were good for lions too, I think - Mamadou said
-And hyenas - said the young man
-Leopards too?
-No, I don't think so...

They were talking for a while, discussing about what I was going to be protected. They finally agreed. The belt was good against lions, hyenas, dogs and, of course, snakes. I felt relieved and discomforted at once, What If i meet a leopard?, I was about to ask. Instead I said

- And how does it work? Does he put a spell on it?

Both looked at me as if I was idiotic.

-Of course not. He knows how to make them, with the right stuff and knots in the right places and so on -Mamadou said as the young man nodded with his head
-It takes a lot of work to learn the craftsmanship to make them- the young man remarked

I was convinced by then that the thing was real, at least, and not some shitty souvenir.

The sorcerer wasn't at the hut, so we were attended by his son and the rest of his happy family. We bought one (1.000 XFA, 1,3 euros), but to my embarrassment, the belt was not long enough to fit me and my belly at a time. So they tied two together.

Sorcerer's family and the incredulous toubab

-Wait, does it work the same? -I asked Mamadou-  Doesn't the knots and so change the position and so on?

-Pay him two - was Mamadou answer.

I was a little bit concerned at the time. But I didn't replied. I put it over my own belt and tied it. Mamadou came to me rushing and explaining.

- Not like that! You have to wear it loose.

Snake sign at Dindefelo's fall

I just made the knot looser. I didn't even give it a second thought.

I don't know why, but I felt a little relieved at the time. I wore the belt for the next two days, and didn't take it off even when swimming in the Dindefelo falls (specially in the Dindefelo falls, as it was clearly signposted).

I carried it in my backpack after the third day. My rational mind was shouting to take it off, but, you know, just in case.

Anti-snake-and-some-fierce-mammals belt

Extraordinary claims need extraordinary proof, so, some more evidence here:

Rainforest sampling and survival kit.
Note the belt on the left

Sampling the first day